Guide to Fermented Skincare

fermented skincare

Fermented ingredients are increasingly popular in skincare products due to their numerous benefits. They offer a natural and effective way to enhance skin health. This guide explores the science, benefits, and application of fermented skincare products, as well as recommending some of my favourite skincare products that contain fermented ingredients.

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What is Fermented Skincare?

Fermentation is a natural process where microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast, and enzymes break down substances. In the context of skincare, ingredients undergo fermentation to enhance their potency and effectiveness. This process not only improves the bioavailability of nutrients but also produces new compounds beneficial for the skin.

The Science Behind Fermentation

Bioavailability and Nutrient Density

Fermentation increases the bioavailability of ingredients, making it easier for the skin to absorb nutrients. For example, when ingredients like rice, soy, or fruit extracts are fermented, they break down into smaller molecules, which can penetrate deeper into the skin layers.

Production of Beneficial Compounds

Fermentation produces beneficial compounds such as amino acids, organic acids, vitamins, and antioxidants. These compounds help in moisturising, brightening, and protecting the skin against environmental stressors. For instance, the fermentation of lactobacillus, a type of probiotic, can produce lactic acid, which is known for its exfoliating and hydrating properties.

Preservation and Stability

Fermentation also acts as a natural preservative, extending the shelf life of skincare products. The acidic environment created during fermentation inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria, reducing the need for synthetic preservatives.

Benefits of Fermented Skincare

Enhanced Hydration

Fermented ingredients often have a higher concentration of humectants, which are substances that attract and retain moisture. This helps in keeping the skin hydrated and plump. Ingredients like fermented rice water are known for their superior moisturising properties.

Improved Skin Barrier Function

The skin barrier is crucial for protecting against environmental aggressors and retaining moisture. Fermented skincare products can strengthen the skin barrier, making it more resilient. For instance, fermented yeast extract is renowned for enhancing skin barrier function.

Anti-Aging Properties

Fermented ingredients are rich in antioxidants, which combat free radicals and prevent premature ageing. The fermentation process enhances the levels of vitamins, such as vitamin C and E, making them more effective in reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Fermented green tea extract, for example, is packed with antioxidants that provide anti-aging benefits.

Soothing and Anti-Inflammatory

Fermented ingredients have anti-inflammatory properties, which can soothe irritated and sensitive skin. Fermented probiotics like lactobacillus and bifidobacterium can help in calming inflammation and reducing redness, making them ideal for sensitive skin types.

Brightening Effects

Fermented skincare products can improve skin tone and texture, giving a brighter and more even complexion. Ingredients like fermented rice bran and sake (fermented rice wine) are known for their brightening effects, thanks to the presence of enzymes and amino acids that promote cell turnover.

Popular Fermented Skincare Ingredients

Fermented Rice Water

Rich in vitamins, minerals, and amino acids, fermented rice water is known for its hydrating and brightening properties. It is a staple in many Asian skincare routines and is particularly effective for improving skin texture and clarity.

Fermented Soybean

Fermented soy is a powerhouse of antioxidants, peptides, and amino acids. It helps in boosting collagen production, improving elasticity, and providing a youthful glow. Products containing fermented soy are excellent for anti-aging purposes.

Fermented Green Tea

Fermented green tea is packed with polyphenols and catechins, which have powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps in protecting the skin from environmental damage and soothes irritation.

Fermented Yeast

Fermented yeast extracts, such as galactomyces, are known for their ability to enhance skin barrier function, improve hydration, and boost radiance. They are commonly found in essences and serums targeting anti-aging and skin resilience.

Fermented Probiotics

Probiotics like lactobacillus and bifidobacterium, when fermented, produce beneficial compounds that support skin health. They help in balancing the skin’s microbiome, reducing inflammation, and enhancing the skin’s natural defence mechanisms.

Recommendations for Skincare With Fermented Ingredients

Neogen Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence

The Neogen Real Ferment Micro Essence contains 93% naturally fermented ingredients to hydrate, moisturise and plump skin.

Ingredients:

  • Bifida ferment lysate – improves elasticity, evens skin tone and hydrates skin
  • Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate – improves elasticity and hydrates skin
  • 17% Birch Juice – hydrates skin
  • Aspergillus ferment – improves appearance of wrinkles, brightens, and hydrates skin
  • 9% Rice Ferment Filtrate – antioxidant, brightens, and hydrates skin

The inclusion of fermented ingredients means that the essence can be absorbed into the skin much easier, as they have a smaller molecular structure. It definitely sinks into my skin a lot faster than other essences and it doesn’t leave my skin sticky.

It has a toner-like texture that leaves my skin super hydrated and plumped. My skin feels more balanced and very smooth from the plumping effects.

Benton Fermentation Eye Cream

The Benton Fermentation Eye Cream contains triple fermented ingredients. This eye cream has the goal of reducing the appearance of wrinkles – it can also be used on other areas of wrinkle concern, like around your mouth.

Ingredients:

  • Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate – boosts elasticity, improves skin texture, moisturises
  • Bifida Ferment Lysate – hydrates, boosts elasticity, nourishes skin
  • Ceramide NP – protects skin, oil-water balance, boosts elasticity
  • Adenosine – smoothes, boosts elasticity, reduces appearance of wrinkles

It has a thick texture, like many ceramide-based creams. It sinks in well considering how thick it is. It doesn’t feel heavy, sticky or greasy on my skin. When I apply under my eyes it gives an instant brightening effect, as it leaves it a bit shiny, which makes it look lighter. It plumps the skin under my eye, making it look smoother and more youthful. I find that lots of eye creams don’t do much noticeably for me, but this is a rare one that gives me instant results.

Mixsoon Bifida Ferment Essence

Made simply from 100% Bifida Ferment Extract, this is a hydrating, calming and nourishing essence. It makes my skin feel softer and look brighter immediately after using.

Kaine

Kaine Kombu Balancing Ampoule Toner

This ampoule toner is packed with hydrating and skin soothing ingredients for refreshed and balanced skin.

Ingredients:

  • 60% Fermented Kombucha Tea – antioxidant, refreshes skin.
  • Panthenol & Allantoin – soothes skin and strengthens skin barrier.
  • 8x Hyaluronic acid – hydrates and moisturises.

The Kaine Kombu Balancing Ampoule Toner can be used as a toner after cleansing for a boost of hydration. Alternatively, you can soak a cotton pad and use it as a toner mask for 10 minutes to soothe skin.

It has a slightly viscous watery texture that sinks in well and doesn’t feel too heavy on my skin. It is super hydrating and ideal for my combination skin.

Dr Ceuracle Vegan Kombucha Tea Gel Cream 

The Kombucha Tea Gel Cream is a lightweight vegan moisturiser packed with probiotics to soothe, calm and nourish skin. 

It contains 20% Kombucha Tea Extract, which is an ingredient rich in probiotics and Vitamin B, to help boost moisture and improve skin health. It also has 59% green tea water to soothe skin, reduce redness and moisturise. 

The cream has a lightweight watery gel texture that is super moisturising – ideal for combination skin types that need extra hydration but can’t handle heavier creams. You’ll be treated to glowy skin without any stickiness or shininess. 

Tocobo Bifida Biome Essence

Bifida to strengthen skin barrier, Lactobacillus to calm and balance skin, lactococcus to improve elasticity, and niacinamide to brighten. The texture is like a gel, and it takes a little while to sink in. My skin tone definitely looks a lot more even, bright and less red since using this.

iUNIK Beta Glucan Power Moisture Serum

Beta Glucan is extracted from mushrooms and it is said to retain moisture 20% better than hyaluronic acid! This serum contains 98% Beta-glucan fermentation solution.

It has a thick, syrupy, almost stringy, texture – a bit like some snail mucin products – but it manages to sink into my skin quickly. My skin feels super moisturised, plumped and smoothed when using this, and there is a noticeable improvement in elasticity.

Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water

Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water

I fell in love with this essence the second I started using it! It makes my skin so soft, and it feels hydrated and plump after I use it.

Ingredients:

  • 80% Ginseng Root Water, Ginseng Complex and Lactobacillus/Ginseng root ferment filtrate to nourish dry skin.
  • 2% Niacinamide to control sebum and redness
  • 0.04% Adenosine to reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

I don’t experience any sensitivity and my skin looks more even in colour and texture. I use this often in my skincare routine.

Dr. Ceuracle Vegan Kombucha Tea Essence

A beautiful hydrating essence with a milky texture to balance the oil-moisture levels of your skin. With 78% kombucha tea extract, which is rich in probiotics, to hydrate, nourish and strengthen skin.

Fermented skincare harnesses the power of natural fermentation to enhance the efficacy of skincare products. With benefits ranging from improved hydration and anti-aging to soothing and brightening effects, incorporating fermented ingredients into your skincare routine can lead to healthier, more radiant skin.

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